DETAILS, FICTION AND PURE SAUCE

It is just an emulsification—egg yolks and butter Reduce by with vinegar flavored with tarragon and shallots, which has a bite of black pepper. Think about it being a loose mayonnaise, requiring only plenty of whisking and a careful hand with the heat to grasp. ... Apply the sauce to steaks or burgers, asparagus or salmon. — Sam Sifton, The The